Testing a relay with a multimeter is a reliable way to check if it's functioning properly. Below is a step-by-step guide to testing both the coil (control side) and the contacts (switched side) of a standard automotive or electrical relay.
Digital multimeter (set to Ohms Ω and continuity/diode mode)
12V power source (car battery or external supply for energizing the relay)
Jumper wires (optional, for activating the relay)
Most relays have 4 or 5 pins, labeled as:
85 & 86 → Coil (electromagnet that activates the relay)
30 → Common (input from power source)
87 → Normally Open (NO) (connects to 30 when relay is powered)
87a → Normally Closed (NC) (only in 5-pin relays, disconnects when relay is powered)
Set multimeter to Ohms (Ω) mode.
Place probes on terminals 85 & 86.
∞ (OL) = Open circuit → Coil is broken.
0Ω or very low → Coil is shorted.
Good relay: Should read 50–120Ω (varies by relay).
Bad relay:
✅ If resistance is within range, the coil is OK.
Set multimeter to continuity (beep) mode.
Check terminals 30 & 87 without power:
Should be open (no continuity, no beep).
Apply 12V to terminals 85 (+) & 86 (-) to energize the relay.
Use a car battery or power supply.
Recheck terminals 30 & 87:
Should now show continuity (beep).
If not, the contacts are faulty.
Set multimeter to continuity mode.
Check terminals 30 & 87a without power:
Should show continuity (beep).
Apply 12V to 85 & 86 to energize the relay.
Recheck terminals 30 & 87a:
Should now be open (no beep).
If not, the NC contacts are stuck.
Energize the relay (12V to 85 & 86).
Set multimeter to DC voltage (20V range).
Measure voltage between 30 (input) & 87 (output).
Good relay: < 0.5V drop.
Bad relay: High voltage drop (poor contact).
Test | Good Relay | Bad Relay |
---|---|---|
Coil Resistance | 50–120Ω | 0Ω or ∞Ω |
NO Contacts (30-87) | Open (unpowered), Closed (powered) | Stuck open/closed |
NC Contacts (30-87a) | Closed (unpowered), Open (powered) | Stuck closed/open |
Voltage Drop | < 0.5V | High drop (> 1V) |
No click when powered? → Coil is dead (check resistance).
Clicks but no continuity? → Contacts are burnt/corroded.
Works intermittently? → Internal arcing or weak coil.
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